Dale Tate
March 4, 2003
Chapin Watermatics Inc.’s Third World
Projects have proved by experimental methods that a garden bed 32 inches wide
and 50 feet long, equipped with two fifty foot drip lines and a 5 gallon pail
can produce a vegetable garden by filling the 5 gallon pail twice daily which
some gardeners in third world countries must carry by hand for up to two miles.
Let’s look at what this
means .32 inches = 2.66 feet X 50 = 133 sq ft of garden.
A one inch rain on 133 sq ft
is 133 / 12 = 11.084 cu ft of water.
There are 7.48 gallons of
water per cu ft so that would be 11.084 X 7.48 = 82.63904 gallons of water.
These people are only using
10 gallons per day so 10 / 82.63904 = .121 inch of water. It takes about 80 days
to grow a crop of sweet corn such as we have had for our corn roast so multiply
the 80 X .121 and you come up with 9.68 inches of water used to grow the crop.
The Irrigation Principals
and Practices 4th edition at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/irrigating.html
In its TOTAL CONSUMPTIVE
USE AND DAILY PEAK USE OF WATER for the Intermountain Desert and Western
high Plains indicate that sweet corn can be grown with .24 to .35 inch per day,
approximately twice of the .121 inch per day used by the Chapin Experiment
found at:
http://www.hydrosource.com/web_clp/971101/chap2.htm
TOTAL
CONSUMPTIVE USE AND DAILY PEAK USE OF WATER
Intermountain
Desert and Western High Plains
|
250-300 Days |
210-250 Days |
180-210 Days |
150-180 Days |
120-150 Days |
90-120 Days |
|
Season |
Daily |
Season |
Daily |
Season |
Daily |
Season |
Daily |
Season |
Daily |
Season |
Daily |
Crops |
Use
(in.) |
Use
(in.) |
Use
(in.) |
Use
(in.) |
Use
(in.) |
Use
(in.) |
Use
(in.) |
Use
(in.) |
Use
(in.) |
Use
(in.) |
Use
(in.) |
Use
(in.) |
Beans |
22.0 |
0.25 |
17.0 |
0.20 |
14.0 |
0.20 |
14.0 |
0.18 |
14.0 |
0.17 |
12.0 |
0.15 |
Corn |
---- |
---- |
30.0 |
0.35 |
26.0 |
0.30 |
24.0 |
0.28 |
22.0 |
0.24 |
---- |
---- |
Potatoes |
---- |
---- |
23.0 |
0.30 |
21.0 |
0.28 |
20.0 |
0.25 |
19.0 |
0.22 |
17.0 |
0.20 |
Peas |
---- |
---- |
---- |
---- |
10.0 |
0.19 |
10.0 |
0.18 |
10.0 |
0.17 |
9.0 |
0.15 |
Tomato |
---- |
---- |
20.0 |
0.22 |
18.0 |
0.20 |
17.0 |
0.18 |
16.0 |
0.17 |
---- |
---- |
Melons |
22.0 |
0.25 |
20.0 |
0.22 |
18.0 |
0.20 |
16.0 |
0.18 |
---- |
---- |
---- |
---- |
Truck Crops |
20.0 |
0.25 |
18.0 |
0.22 |
14.0 |
0.20 |
12.0 |
0.18 |
12.0 |
0.16 |
10.0 |
0.15 |
|
From: Irrigation
Principles and Practices. 4th Ed. Vaughn Hansen |
I have heard that our local
irrigation district allow a farmer 26 inches of water to grow corn so it obvious
someone need to know more about how to use water including
the Members of the Weldon Yerby Community Garden Society. Water
conservation is an evolving technology so exactly how much water can be
conserved is unknown.
Water is precious,
especially in the desert, as in El Paso County so allow me to
inform you of some water math. Rain fall has been measured in inches since (I
don’t know when), therefore irrigation requirement is also measured in inches.
One inch of free water from nature means something like this. One cubit foot of
water is 7.48 gallons and that much you have received with a one inch rain on
each 12 sq. feet of your garden space.
Most of our garden sites are
about 5.5 X 42.5 feet or 238 sq. ft. so one would divide 238/12 and get 19.834
cubit feet that would fall on your garden with a one inch rain. That means you
have just received (19.834 X 7.48) about 150 gallons of free water. We get this
about 7 to 9 times a year. Any additional water we use cost someone some money,
in our case it is the City of El Paso Parks and Recreation Department.
We are growing gardens for
fun, well so what? Boys and Girls play soccer on city parks for fun and the
parks also use water.
A short paper, as I hope
this will be, cannot begin to tell you how much to water, but maybe I can tell
you how not to waste water.
The T-tape or otherwise
known as drip tape with a 10 pound pressure regulator that we are using in the
garden dispenses 40 gallons per hour for each 100 feet. A conscious water user
must first know how much water is being used.
Plants use water as moisture
as damp soil, not free water as in wet soil that can be squeezed out. Now keep
this in mind, if one placed a two inch deep pan out in the sun for June, July,
and August and put an amount of water in the pan each morning equivalent to one
inch of rainfall, you would never fill the pan because the evaporation rate from
and open pan exceeds the one inch per day. When I see wet soil in our garden, I
am well aware that the gardener does not know much about water and is wasting a
valuable resource by evaporation.
They could use a two or
three inches of organic mulch on top of the drip tape, or do as some do and
place the drip tape three or four inches under the top of the soil. Some
agriculturists call this dust mulching or subsurface drip irrigation (SDI),
which allows little or no water to be lost from evaporation. I understand
the City is to exempt (SDI) systems from the coming water restrictions.
The root growing depth of
most of our vegetable plants is in the 12 to 24 inch range. In our garden you
are indeed fortunate to have 24 inches of soil. Soil is like a sponge. When you
saturate a sponge with water and the lay in on a table, you will see that water
will drain out of it for a few moments and then stops. The water retained in the
sponge, we can called sponge capacity and that’s all the water that can be used,
that water on the table is wasted.
Our garden soil have what is
called “field capacity”, that being the amount of water the soil will hold
against the force of gravity. Water applied above this amount drains into the
subsoil and is wasted just like the water draining out of the sponge onto
the table.
You can check the depth of
your soil with a posthole digger. After one knows the depth of their soil, one
way to check the depth of water penetration with what is known as a soil probe
which is only a ¼ inch steel rod with a handle on in for pushing into the soil.
This is important to know in order to avoid watering the sub-soil and wasting
water. You are also wasting plant food or fertilizers. Most plant foods are
water soluble so what you are doing when you over water are dissolving the plant
nutrients in water and caring it down below the root zone.
Soils are mineral particles
ranging in size from very small (clay) to the very large (course sand). The
larger soil particles create less field capacity for holding water. It also
means that the water used will penetrate deeper in the soil, however it does not
mean that you can produce a crop for less water, what it does mean is that you
will use less water but water more often. Hard squabble farmers call this a
droughty field. That is what we have, however every gardener site is different
depending on the amount of organic matter they have added to it, but generally
one can estimate 1 foot of soil will hold from 1 to 1.4 inches of water so any
time you see someone applying more than ¾ inch of water to 9 inches of top soil,
you may know that person is abusing a privilege.
Plants need moisture, soil
with nutrients, and air to thrive. Sometimes plant die because of saturated soil
which excludes air.
Few people are astute enough
to recognize the amount of water you are wasting by watering the sub-soil but
even a half-wit can see water flooding out of your garden patch and know this is
wasting water.
This is caused by people
using automatic timer set for too often or for too long or by people manually
turning their water on and leaving the garden without remembering to turn the
water off. Personally, I use an automatic metering valve that can be turns on
for an amount of water in gallons and then turns off. My rational for using this
device is that if I’m not looking at my garden and know how much water to use,
then I should not be using water anywhere. Probably shouldn’t be even left along
all night to care for myself.
We do get some rain –
recently we received about one and ½ inch of rain at our gardens, but those
automatic timers are still watering. I cut some water off, and really I would
just as soon the water for that patch is never turned back on because to owner
don’t deserve to have a garden. I do the same when I see water running manually
with the owner no where in site.
Table 1: Determination of
soil moisture content:
How Soil Feels
and Looks
Soil Moisture Level |
Coarse (sand) |
Light (loamy sand, sandy loam) |
Medium (fine sandy loan, silt loam |
Heavy (clay loam, clay) |
No available soil moisture. Plants wilt. Irrigation
required. (First Range) |
Dry, loose, single grained, flows through fingers. No
stain or smear on fingers. |
Dry, loose, clods easily crushed and flows through
fingers. No stain or smear on fingers |
Crumbly, dry, powder, barely maintains shape. Clods
break down easily. May leave slight smear or stain when worked with hands
or fingers. |
Hard, firm baked, cracked usually too stiff or tough
to work or ribbon* by squeezing between thumb or forefinger. May leave
slight smear or stain. |
Moisture is available, but level is low. Irrigation
needed. (Second Range) |
Appears dry; will not retain shape when squeezed in
hand |
Appears dry; may make a cast when squeezed in hand
but seldom holds together. |
May form a weak ball** under pressure but is still
crumbly. Color is pale with no obvious moisture. |
Pliable, forms a ball; ribbons but usually breaks or
is crumbly. May leave slight stain or smear. |
Moisture is available. Level is high. Irrigation not
yet needed (Third Range) |
Color is dark with obvious moisture Soil may stick
together in very weak cast or ball. |
Color is dark with obvious moisture. Soil forms weak
ball or cast under pressure. Slight finger stain but no ribbon when
squeezed between thumb and fore finger. |
Color is dark from obvious moisture. Forms a ball.
Works easily, clods are soft with mellow feel. Stains finger and has slick
feel when squeezed. |
Color is dark with obvious moisture. Forms good ball.
Ribbons easily, has slick feel. Leaves stain on fingers. |
Soil moisture level following irrigation. (Fourth
Range) |
Appears and feels moist. Color is dark. May form weak
cast or ball. Leaves wet outline or slight smear on hand. |
Appears and feels moist. Color is dark. Forms cast or
ball. Will not ribbon but shows smear or stain and leaves wet outline on
hand. |
Appears and feels moist. Color is dark. Has a smooth,
mellow feel. Forms ball and ribbons when squeezed. Stains and smears.
Leaves wet outline on hand. |
Color is dark. Appears moist; may feel sticky.
Ribbons out easily; smears and stains hand; leaves wet outline. Forms good
ball. |
*Ribbon is formed by squeezing and working soil
between thumb and forefinger.
**Cast or ball is formed by squeezing soil in hand. |
Now
for those who would like to know more, you can start here.
Farmers who grow plants for
profit have a very scientific method of determining when and how much to water.
Land grant universities have developed a scale called PET (potential evaporation
transpiration) index for each location or environment within their state. This
index is the water need of a four inch high mature cool season grass to grow
successfully. This conclusion is drawn from the historical record of the past
thirty years of climate data including temperature, wind speeds, and humidity.
They also know that each
species of plants has a different moisture requirement. They call this a crop
coefficient (cK). This cK is normally a percentage of the PET and this
percentage is most times less than 100 percent of PET.
Another factor used is the
stage of plant growth of these crops and this is also a percentage of the cK.
Now to use this information they need soil sensors placed in predetermined
manner in their fields. Now to use all this information, they must have
computers connected to the sensors to turn the irrigations systems on and off.
There are fewer and fewer small family farms because it takes a large operation
to be profitable. It’s called the economy of scale.
Evapotranspiration
(ET) is a measurement
of the total amount of water needed to grow plants and crops. This term comes
from the words evaporation (i.e., evaporation of water from the soil) and
transpiration (i.e., transpiration of water by plants). Different plants
have different water requirements, so they have different ET rates.
Since there are thousands of cultivated plants, we have tried to simplify
matters by establishing a standard ET rate for general reference and use. The
standard is referred to as the potential evapotranspiration (pet). This is the
potential ET since we are assuming the crop is in a deep soil and under well
watered conditions. The standard crop we are using is a cool season grass which
is 4-inches tall. The technical term for this is the "Potential
Evapotranspiration of a Grass Reference Crop".
The following table is
historic PET for El Paso so there is no way that one need to use more water on
our gardens than the 66.05 inches per year minus the amount of rain fall we
receive.
Average
Historic PET
(inches/month) |
PET |
Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
Total |
El Paso |
1.3 |
1.7 |
4.2 |
5.6 |
8.88 |
9.91 |
9.24 |
8.32 |
7.6 |
5.2 |
3 |
1.1 |
66.05 |
How much water is this?
Let’s compute for a total year assuming we have a 238 square foot garden and
that you are going to water for maximum production using the total 66.05 inches
of water / 12 is 5.5 feet X the 238 sq ft = 1309 cubit feet X 7.48 gallons per
cubit feet equals 9,791.32 gallons of water used on one garden site in a year.
That’s equivalent to approximately 178 fifty-five gallon barrels of water for
each garden site.
Our objective is save the amount of water
received as rain and at least 35 % of the 9,791.32 gallons desired. To do this
we would minimize the amount of water lost to evaporation and to leaching.
There is also a thing called deficit
irrigation, a fact is that some vegetable crops need water stress at various
times for the highest quality produce. Cantaloupes, Jalapeno Papers, and
Tomatoes come to mind. The Cantaloupes and Tomatoes will not get sweet without
some stress and Jalapeno Peppers will not get hot. Garden plants seem to
acclimate to an environment so it is quite conceivable that one could be quite
successful in saving another 20 to 25% by practicing deficit irrigation. Most
desert acclimated landscape plants must also be stressed for water to reach
their most natural of beautiful state, yet most subsurface drip system installed
by the green industries do not allow for this. These so called xeriscape plants
will also acclimate to excess water when provided, but often not into the
beautiful plant desired. That makes one wonder the point of xeriscapeing to
begin with.
Water moves down thru the soil by gravity.
Water moves upward and sideways by capillary action.
Subsurface drip irrigation (SDI) is the latest, and possibly the most
sophisticated and most efficient method available for irrigating agricultural
crops, landscape and turf. As often demonstrated, SDI is capable of providing
the greatest yields and water use efficiency (WUE) of any irrigation method now
in use in the World.
Actually some of us may be using more water
than (PET) requirement for El Paso as some seem to be using water all the year
without regard to the season.
Approximately 40 percent of the garden sites
at the Weldon Yerby Senior Citizen's
Community Gardens have already been retrofitted with the drip irrigation
equipment installed and there are two gardens that have subsurface drip
irrigation (SDI). On average, I think we senior citizens are ahead of the rest
of the city in water conservation measures taken.
Our Garden Society will promote SDI on all
the sites by education and example.
March 29, 2003
TOP |